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Kawasaki Troubleshooting
Engine Will Not Crank
Safety switches on unit malfunctioning
Improper ground
Loose battery connections
Drive belt wedged between idler pulley or guide
Transmission tight or locked up
Key switch or wire harness improperly connected
Blown diodes in system
Positive lead on starter solenoid interfering with solenoid – terminal on solenoid
Starting battery low on charge or not charged
PTO clutch locked up
Starter or solenoid malfunction or starter pinion stuck
No current supplied to starter
Starting leads from battery reversed
Key switch malfunction
Wire harness fuse blown
Starting system cable connectors loose/corroded or worn
Wired incorrectly
Compression release inoperative
Engine seized up
Combustion chamber flooded with fuel or oil
Engine Cranks but will not start
Fuel turned off or out of fuel
Carb fuel solenoid inoperable
Not firing at plug – bad coil
Safety switches not working on unit
Transmission in gear or neutral switch defective
PTO clutch switch on
Engine flooded
Cranks too slow
Choke is not closing all the way
Fuel filter or fuel line clogged
Plug wire loose or not connected
Water in fuel
Low or no compression
Engine or unit improperly wired
Fuel hose kinked or pinched
Wire harness connections loose
Diode burned in harness
Low power going to spark advance module
Engine Starts –will not accelerate or run at idle
Engine not warmed up
Low idle RPM set too low –check spec book
Low idle fuel mixture set too lean
Running out of fuel
Parasitic load on PTO (hydro pump, belts, etc)
Bad fuel, old fuel, water in fuel
Governor set improperly – linkages, etc.
Engine runs/Backfires on full throttle
Throttle cable/choke improperly set
Blown fuse in unit control box
Safety switches malfunctioning
Carb fuel solenoid malfunctioning
Fuel mixture set too rich or too lean
Water in fuel bad fuel
Foreign material in carb
Valves hanging up or sticking
Ignition out of time – sheared flywheel key
Gear timing incorrect
Engine Runs – stops on high RPM – no load
Out of fuel – fuel cap not breathing
Very low or poor lubrication – engine seizes or starts to seize
Carb solenoid malfunction
Safety switches malfunctioning
Key switch malfunctioning
Spark plug lead loose or disconnected
Wiring connections loosing contact or shorting
Engine will not hot restart
Battery cables reversed causing stator to short out
Defective regulator or rectifier causing stator to short out
Defective ignition module(s)
Vapor lock (fuel) pump - sags in fuel line – fuel cap not breathing
Carb solenoid malfunctioning
Low oil pressure – unhook low oil switch if used
Not able to obtain top RPM no load
Throttle cable not traveling far enough
Choke not opening all the way
Need engine warm up 3-5 minutes
Fuel restriction – filter – fuel pump – fuel lines – fuel tank
Drive system binding
Foreign material in carb
Engine timing
Gov adjustment and linkages
Gov hung up internally
Backfiring at shut down
Carbs with solenoids must be shut down at ½ to ¾ throttle
Carbs without solenoids must run at idle for 2 to 3 minutes
Cold Starting Engines
Full choke (all seasons)
May need choke assist until engine is warmed up
Warm up time 3 to 5 minutes before putting under a load
On units with larger decks you may need choke assist until engaged

